Gucci and Dapper Dan Collab: New Collection is Out

Dapper Dan, the infamous couturier of gangster chic, recently collaborated with Gucci to produce and entirely unprecedented line of merchandise. Taking it back to the streets of Harlem, the new Dapper Dan collection is a nod to the counterfeit king of luxury “knockups.”

DAPPER DAN - BOOTLEGGIN’ COUTURIER

In the mid-1980’s, Dapper Dan made a name for himself as the counterfeit tailor of Harlem. What began as a bootleg operation quickly turned into a unique expression of designer fashion. He reimagined the luxury of designer goods to fit the people and style of Harlem. And before long, he gained a reputation among celebrities and gangsters. His designs were in-demand, one-of-a-kind, and hugely impactful. He was a bootlegger with an eye for custom designs, and he quickly became a threat to the high-fashion community--a world with strict boundaries of exclusivity.

THE KNOCKUP

Dapper Dan clothing was far from the cheap production of early street bootlegging. His designs were meticulous, custom, and in many cases, more luxurious than the original. He incorporated elements like fur, Kevlar, and velour into his creations. He successfully turned knockoff designs into high-fashion, in-demand pieces. And before long, his interpretation of designer fashion was seen on celebrities and sports stars. His creations were no longer on-par with the counterfeit junk on the street. No longer a knockoff, he was the king of the “knockup.” He had become a legitimate and wholly luxurious designer.  

LAWSUIT AND LEGACY

In 1992, a powerful lawsuit dismantled Dapper Dan’s operation. A scuffle between two of Dan’s clients led to media coverage, and ultimately caught the attention of the designers Dan had ripped off. Fendi drew up a lawsuit, forcing Dapper Dan to abandon his Harlem studio and his A-list book of clients. At the time, it seemed like a dynasty of luxury bootlegging had finally met its maker.  

DESIGNERS SHAKE HANDS - DAPPER DAN x GUCCI

When Gucci unveiled its Cruise 2018 line, fans couldn’t help but notice a familiarity in one of the designs. It didn’t look original. In fact, it looked like a knock-off of a knockup they once knew. It was Dapper Dan’s. The fashion community held its breath in preparation for a lawsuit. But instead, Gucci opened communication with the king of bootlegging and proposed a collaboration. A partnership was formed, and Dapper Dan’s Harlem atelier was reopened for business. The two designers shook hands and agreed to a collection that would pay homage to Dan’s influence on the fashion of the “cocaine 80’s.” Dan was given artistic license to utilize Gucci’s logo, as well as access to Gucci’s raw materials, fabrics, and hardware. The collaboration garnered a get deal of anticipation, as fans awaited access to a collection they never dreamed possible.

COLLABORATION AND A NEW LOGO

The Gucci-Dapper Dan collaboration fully embraces the street style of 80’s Harlem. The 300+ piece collection features Gucci’s signature red and green palette, intermixed with Dan’s tracksuit and bomber jacket style. The collaboration also celebrates a new Gucci logo—a yellow double G that first appeared on the sign outside Dan’s original studio. The collection’s nod to Harlem includes woven chains, velour, leather, and nylon staples, all stamped with the Gucci logo—and this time, with the Italian designer’s consent.

HARLEM COMES FULL CIRCLE

Ari Marcopoulos created a stunning lookbook for the collection, utilizing both models and Harlem natives to capture the essence of the collaboration. While Dapper Dan is not present in the photos, there is a clear sense of his influence and style. Gucci’s collaboration is, without a doubt, one of the smartest and most inclusive expressions of art we have seen in a while. Inevitably, this partnership will set the tone for future artists who can benefit from shared work.

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